Maintaining naturalness through diversity

Text: Christine Dominkus Specialist contribution: Dr. Veith Moser , Specialist in Plastic, Aesthetic and Reconstructive Surgery Published in: Verlag Die Bundesländerinnen

A youthful appearance is more important than ever in today's successful society. But like every other organ, the skin also ages. UV radiation is largely responsible for this. At the molecular level, UV radiation causes DNA damage that can be repaired by the body's own repair processes. Since daylight without direct sunlight also contains UV radiation, daily use of sunscreen is a good idea to slow down the skin's aging process, explains plastic surgeon Dr. Veith Moser, Vienna.

Face like milk and ebony. A face with even pigmentation tends to be seen as young, while an uneven, spotty face is seen as older, if you ignore the wrinkles. This is why it is so important to cleanse your face of environmental dirt in the evening. UV radiation and smoking are not the only factors that contribute to external skin aging, but also environmental pollution to a certain extent. Diesel soot particles in exhaust fumes seem to be responsible for age spots. People who live in cities with a lot of traffic had 20 percent more pigment spots on their foreheads and cheeks than people in sparsely populated regions.

Colorful palette. Radical scavengers can prevent skin aging. These include antioxidants such as beta-carotene (provitamin A), vitamins C and E and coenzyme Q. Existing skin changes can be corrected with vitamin A acid derivatives (retinol) and hormones. Studies have shown that there is an increase in collagen fibers and a reorganization of elastic fibers, says Dr. Moser. Chemical peels also stimulate the formation of new collagen. Depending on the depth of the peel, different downtimes can be expected. Hormones applied to the facial skin, e.g. an estadiol preparation, increase the formation of new collagen in women after the menopause. Experience has shown that local hormonal anti-aging therapy is particularly effective in women in the first ten years after menopause. "However, hormones are not for everyone and are also controversial due to the risk of developing breast cancer," says the plastic surgeon. However, the typical local anti-aging measures seem to have little effect on facial wrinkles and sagging skin. According to Moser, filler injections, autologous fat transplantation, Botox injections, lasers, radiotherapy and even surgery are increasingly being used here.

Quality is crucial. Those who prefer to go the natural route choose cosmetics with high-quality substances. The vehicles used to transport anti-aging substances into the skin are also essential. Multilamellar lipids can transport active ingredients deep into the skin layers and stimulate the skin to regenerate the missing components itself. Peptides play a central role in metabolism. They signal us to start the body's own repair mechanism of the skin. These active ingredient complexes stimulate the slowed regeneration of mature skin, strengthen its structure and thus help to visibly reduce wrinkles. Acetylhexapeptide-8, a compound of six amino acids, influences communication between cells by weakening the signals that make the facial muscles contract. This can reduce the depth of expression lines. The effect of Botox treatments for crow's feet and smoker's lines can thus be extended. Palmitoyltripeptide-38 fills in wrinkles from the inside and tightens the skin on the forehead, around the eyes and around the mouth. This stimulates the development of the most important components of skin tissue, such as collagen and hyaluronic acid. African women swear by the effect of the extract from the sausage tree (Kigelia africana) as an anti-wrinkle cream. In Europe, the effect is still relatively unknown. The natural estrogen-like properties of the Kigelia pulp can balance the structure of mature facial skin, improve elasticity, reduce the formation of wrinkles and soften existing wrinkles. The flavonoids and phytosterol saponins contained in the pulp are responsible for the firming effect due to their hormone-like properties. There are many cosmetics.

Maintain youthfulness. Stopping the aging process is impossible, but you can intervene in small steps and from many different angles, says Dr. Moser. The range of treatments available covers a wide spectrum from different measures to plastic surgery. The treating expert is responsible for dealing with the wishes and expectations of the patient in a responsible and serious manner, and Dr. Moser is convinced of his goal of preserving naturalness.